Pits can be placed in a drive or pathway, with the surface graded to the opening.  This pit can then be used as an inspection/clean out point, as well as pick up any surface water.  Pits can also be placed in a garden or lawn area and fitted with a solid lid.

Inspection Openings are tees cut into the storm water drain and bought to the surface, with either a grate or screwed cap for easy access.

Today in domestic properties, the majority of drains are layed in 90mm PVC, but some plumbers do prefer to use 100mm PVC, the same as sewers.

Although there are no hard and fast rules, storm water drains should be layed to a minimum fall off 1 in 60, this allows for proper discharge of water to barrel drains or gutters.

Storm water drainage in domestic properties start at the bottom of your 100mm x 50mm downpipes.  Start your drain off with a 100 x 50 x 90mm storm water adaptor, then the appropriate bends as required.  When branching into another line, I have always believed that you should use a 45degree junction, and a 45 degree bend to straighten the pipe up.  This allows the water to merge, and not hit at 90 degrees.

Purchase your tap washers from your local Plumbing Supplies or Hardware store.  A bit of history here, quite a few years ago, you had to use a Leather Washer for Cold, and Fibre Washers for Hot, but that has all changed now, and it one washer does all.  The different brands are much the same, but you can purchase a washer with a built in pressure type system, that holds the washer hard on the seat, excellent value, but more costly.  Follow these steps, should take you about 15 minutes, and then no more drip, drip.

1/ At the front of your property, turn off the valve at the water meter, will be normal type or quarter turn. If you are on a Pressure Pump system in your home, turn off the power to the pump, and close the valve on the tank or on the pump.

2/ The next step is very important, turn on the front or back tap fully, and leave on. If your stop valve     on the meter does not hold 100%, this will catch any water, before it builds up inside.

3/ Turn on a Hot Tap inside, this will relieve the pressure in the hot water piping, if you have a storage type of Hot Water Service.  The reason for this is, if you are changing a washer on what is called a breaching set, like basin, shower or sink, the hot water is still under pressure.

4/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the Hot or Cold button on top of the tap.

5/ Remove the handle, this should slip off the spindle easily.

6/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the tap bonnet, this should be able to be done by hand.  If it has been  put on to tight, wrap a towel around the bonnet and undo with multigrips. We are trying to avoid any scratching here.

7/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the spindle housing from the valve body with an adjustable spanner, this housing will have a square or hexagonal edge.

8/ Remove the old washer and valve (you may need tweezers to lift old washer out of the body)

9/ This next step is “very important” place the new valve/washer into the tap spindle. Before you attempt to put the tap back together, put the handle back on the spindle and open the tap fully. This must be done or you will grind the new washer into the seat.

10/ With the new valve in place, screw the spindle housing back into the body, as tight as you can by hand, and then a slight pinch up with a spanner, this does not need to be super tight.

11/ Screw the bonnet back onto the spindle housing, tighten by hand is all you need to do.

12/ Replace the Hot/Cold button, pinch up slightly with spanner or the one supplied.

13/ Turn the tap off until the washer engages the seat, the job is now complete.

14/ Turn the garden taps off.

15/ Turn the valve on at the meter very slowly.  With Pressure Pump system, turn the valve at the tank or pump on first, then turn on the power to the pump.

16/ Open taps inside slowly, the pipes may be full of air.

After you have completed this, and if your tap is still dripping, the seat where the washer sits may be scratched or indented.  This is a job for your local Plumber with a re-seating tool.

If you have any further problems, contact me through the Contact Us Page.

Ken The Plumber.

When you turn on a tap, hose or sprinkler, the pressure switch senses a drop in pressure, and turns the pump on.  You will need an external power point next to the pump, turned on at all times.

These pumps of different brands sell for between $500 – $600

Below is a Pressure Pump, connected to a tank, then to an automatic sprinkler system.

Tank with Pressure Pump.

Once  you install your tank, you can then decide how to use this to your best advantage.  You can run a hose off the tank and just water by gravity, nothing really special, but it does do the job.  Why not have the best and install a pump.  There are two ways to do this either with a Pressure Pump or an Inline Pump.

Read on to the following posts and check it out.

Our tank stands are manufactured out of 50mm x 50mm x 2mm (2inch x 2inch) RHS (Rolled Hollow Section) tube, fully welded.  The cross braces should be no further than 300mm (12 inches) apart, to support the timber base.

If your tank stand is to be placed on an existing path, weld 150mm x 150mm x 6mm (6 inches x 6 inches) plates on the bottom of legs, with 2 x 10mm holes in each for fixing to concrete,

The ideal timber for the base is 65 or 90mm x 19mm Treated Pine, Merbou or Jarrah.  Fix timbers to the stand with Stainless Steel Tek screws.

With this Tank Stand system, allow for your preferred height off the ground, plus 400-500mm to be concreted in.  On the bottom of the legs, weld on spikes, 10mm round bar, 75mm long.  These will embed in the concrete to hold stand solid.

The mesh should be 52 grade, and the concrete a minimum of 20 MpA, poured on a solid base of 50mm compacted crushed rock or packing sand.

When preparing the slab, box up formwork, with pegs or stakes every 500mm to avoid movement.

Want something to really set your job off, you can have a sheetmetal box formed and welded in one piece.  This can even be done with 100mm x 40mm C section purlin.  This is the ultimate in a tank installation project.

The most important adice I can give is, make sure your boxing or metal surround is set up dead level.  Nothing looks worse than a 1.8 or 2.0 metre tank out of level.

I prefer that all tanks, should be on tank stands, off the ground, for a neater cleaner installation.  Yes, it is more costly, but do it once and do it right.

Fibreglass. Whilst more costly than the above, these tanks are more resistant to rust and chemicals. A Fibreglass rainwater tank can also withstand high variances in temperature.  These tanks can also be placed underground.

Steel. Some people see the steel tank as an old style tank for life.  Manufactured in Corrugated Iron, they are usually round, or flat with round ends.  Their cost is a little prohibitive, and you need a few strong arms to place the tank. Very popular if prone to any knocks.

Aqua Plate Steel. An extension of the above, this is a coated steel tank, sometimes called Marvi Plate.  Although still a corrugated tank, some people prefer this type of tank when exposed to view.  These rainwater tanks are more expensive than the plain steel tank.

Concrete. A concrete rainwater tank can be placed above or below ground.  A concrete can have massive capacity and keep water very cool.  Although newer designed tanks are stronger, these tanks require a solid base to avoid cracking.  Concrete tanks should always be covered for safety reasons, and the stop algea forming from direct sunlight.

Above or below ground. Rainwater tanks can be placed above or below ground.  If you are planning a tank installation in an existing property, your best option cost wise, is to stay with the above ground tank.  Below ground tanks are a big space saver, but a lot of forward planning is required if you prefer this version.  The underground tank is usually placed before any building work commences to allow access for excavators.  Please be very cautious of any existing underground piping or wiring.