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May
14
My suggestion is to have one of the above every 25 metres minimum. Both are used for inspection of drains and routine cleaning.
Pits can be placed in a drive or pathway, with the surface graded to the opening. This pit can then be used as an inspection/clean out point, as well as pick up any surface water. Pits can also be placed in a garden or lawn area and fitted with a solid lid.
Inspection Openings are tees cut into the storm water drain and bought to the surface, with either a grate or screwed cap for easy access.
May
14
Storm Water drainage has evolved over time. Many years ago, storm water drains were layed like sewers, in earthenware with a string line.
Today in domestic properties, the majority of drains are layed in 90mm PVC, but some plumbers do prefer to use 100mm PVC, the same as sewers.
Although there are no hard and fast rules, storm water drains should be layed to a minimum fall off 1 in 60, this allows for proper discharge of water to barrel drains or gutters.
Storm water drainage in domestic properties start at the bottom of your 100mm x 50mm downpipes. Start your drain off with a 100 x 50 x 90mm storm water adaptor, then the appropriate bends as required. When branching into another line, I have always believed that you should use a 45degree junction, and a 45 degree bend to straighten the pipe up. This allows the water to merge, and not hit at 90 degrees.
May
14
The information here is specifically for the Standard Type Tap, with the “Valve and Washer” not the “Mixing” type of tap.
Purchase your tap washers from your local Plumbing Supplies or Hardware store. A bit of history here, quite a few years ago, you had to use a Leather Washer for Cold, and Fibre Washers for Hot, but that has all changed now, and it one washer does all. The different brands are much the same, but you can purchase a washer with a built in pressure type system, that holds the washer hard on the seat, excellent value, but more costly. Follow these steps, should take you about 15 minutes, and then no more drip, drip.
1/ At the front of your property, turn off the valve at the water meter, will be normal type or quarter turn. If you are on a Pressure Pump system in your home, turn off the power to the pump, and close the valve on the tank or on the pump.
2/ The next step is very important, turn on the front or back tap fully, and leave on. If your stop valve on the meter does not hold 100%, this will catch any water, before it builds up inside.
3/ Turn on a Hot Tap inside, this will relieve the pressure in the hot water piping, if you have a storage type of Hot Water Service. The reason for this is, if you are changing a washer on what is called a breaching set, like basin, shower or sink, the hot water is still under pressure.
4/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the Hot or Cold button on top of the tap.
5/ Remove the handle, this should slip off the spindle easily.
6/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the tap bonnet, this should be able to be done by hand. If it has been put on to tight, wrap a towel around the bonnet and undo with multigrips. We are trying to avoid any scratching here.
7/ Unscrew (anti-clockwise) the spindle housing from the valve body with an adjustable spanner, this housing will have a square or hexagonal edge.
8/ Remove the old washer and valve (you may need tweezers to lift old washer out of the body)
9/ This next step is “very important” place the new valve/washer into the tap spindle. Before you attempt to put the tap back together, put the handle back on the spindle and open the tap fully. This must be done or you will grind the new washer into the seat.
10/ With the new valve in place, screw the spindle housing back into the body, as tight as you can by hand, and then a slight pinch up with a spanner, this does not need to be super tight.
11/ Screw the bonnet back onto the spindle housing, tighten by hand is all you need to do.
12/ Replace the Hot/Cold button, pinch up slightly with spanner or the one supplied.
13/ Turn the tap off until the washer engages the seat, the job is now complete.
14/ Turn the garden taps off.
15/ Turn the valve on at the meter very slowly. With Pressure Pump system, turn the valve at the tank or pump on first, then turn on the power to the pump.
16/ Open taps inside slowly, the pipes may be full of air.
After you have completed this, and if your tap is still dripping, the seat where the washer sits may be scratched or indented. This is a job for your local Plumber with a re-seating tool.
If you have any further problems, contact me through the Contact Us Page.
Ken The Plumber.
May
9
A Pressure Pump is installed on the outlet of your tank. This type of pump is primed and ready to use at all times.
When you turn on a tap, hose or sprinkler, the pressure switch senses a drop in pressure, and turns the pump on. You will need an external power point next to the pump, turned on at all times.
These pumps of different brands sell for between $500 – $600
Below is a Pressure Pump, connected to a tank, then to an automatic sprinkler system.
Tank with Pressure Pump.
May
7
Tank installation has only really kicked into gear in the last few years. Not that long ago, when the powers to be said “we have plenty of water in Australia, dont worry about anything” People would not have thought in their wildest dreams that we would be installing water tanks in our homes in the suburbs, they only did that in the country. The so called powers to be, have now hit the panic button, and are urging everyone to install rainwater tanks.
Once you install your tank, you can then decide how to use this to your best advantage. You can run a hose off the tank and just water by gravity, nothing really special, but it does do the job. Why not have the best and install a pump. There are two ways to do this either with a Pressure Pump or an Inline Pump.
Read on to the following posts and check it out.
May
7
The main reason why I prefer this system, is that the tank is off the ground, and the pump if you are installing one, will always have a positive flooded suction. Yes, there is the downside, it will probably cost more, but I do believe its worth the effort.
Our tank stands are manufactured out of 50mm x 50mm x 2mm (2inch x 2inch) RHS (Rolled Hollow Section) tube, fully welded. The cross braces should be no further than 300mm (12 inches) apart, to support the timber base.
If your tank stand is to be placed on an existing path, weld 150mm x 150mm x 6mm (6 inches x 6 inches) plates on the bottom of legs, with 2 x 10mm holes in each for fixing to concrete,
The ideal timber for the base is 65 or 90mm x 19mm Treated Pine, Merbou or Jarrah. Fix timbers to the stand with Stainless Steel Tek screws.
With this Tank Stand system, allow for your preferred height off the ground, plus 400-500mm to be concreted in. On the bottom of the legs, weld on spikes, 10mm round bar, 75mm long. These will embed in the concrete to hold stand solid.
May
7
If you are going with the concrete slab, it should be at least 100mm thick, and 200mm bigger than the tank all round, to avoid cracking at the edges.
The mesh should be 52 grade, and the concrete a minimum of 20 MpA, poured on a solid base of 50mm compacted crushed rock or packing sand.
When preparing the slab, box up formwork, with pegs or stakes every 500mm to avoid movement.
Want something to really set your job off, you can have a sheetmetal box formed and welded in one piece. This can even be done with 100mm x 40mm C section purlin. This is the ultimate in a tank installation project.
The most important adice I can give is, make sure your boxing or metal surround is set up dead level. Nothing looks worse than a 1.8 or 2.0 metre tank out of level.
May
7
Tanks come in all shapes and sizes, and must be well supported. Remember that even a small tank of 1000 Litres, is 1000 Kilograms or 1Tonne of water.
I prefer that all tanks, should be on tank stands, off the ground, for a neater cleaner installation. Yes, it is more costly, but do it once and do it right.
May
6
Polythene. The most popular of rainwater tanks. These tanks are light and easy to move around and are UV resistant. Polythene tanks come in all shapes and sizes and are the least expensive of all rainwater tanks. A manufacturer has even made a rainwater tank that doubles as a fence.
Fibreglass. Whilst more costly than the above, these tanks are more resistant to rust and chemicals. A Fibreglass rainwater tank can also withstand high variances in temperature. These tanks can also be placed underground.
Steel. Some people see the steel tank as an old style tank for life. Manufactured in Corrugated Iron, they are usually round, or flat with round ends. Their cost is a little prohibitive, and you need a few strong arms to place the tank. Very popular if prone to any knocks.
Aqua Plate Steel. An extension of the above, this is a coated steel tank, sometimes called Marvi Plate. Although still a corrugated tank, some people prefer this type of tank when exposed to view. These rainwater tanks are more expensive than the plain steel tank.
Concrete. A concrete rainwater tank can be placed above or below ground. A concrete can have massive capacity and keep water very cool. Although newer designed tanks are stronger, these tanks require a solid base to avoid cracking. Concrete tanks should always be covered for safety reasons, and the stop algea forming from direct sunlight.
Above or below ground. Rainwater tanks can be placed above or below ground. If you are planning a tank installation in an existing property, your best option cost wise, is to stay with the above ground tank. Below ground tanks are a big space saver, but a lot of forward planning is required if you prefer this version. The underground tank is usually placed before any building work commences to allow access for excavators. Please be very cautious of any existing underground piping or wiring.
May
6
An article by Mr John Bird, a supporter of the Coalition for Sustainable Water Use.
One percent of water is used on our gardens, while 10% is wasted because of broken and leaking water mains.
Lawns cut and maintained at 50mm or more, provide three times more oxygen than trees and absorb three times the CO2 than Australian trees.
Green grass is an outdoor “climate control” able to lower ground temperature by up to 20 degrees.
Lawns of 240 square metres provide enough oxygen for a family of four a day (at ground level)
Grass acts as a dust and erosion filter for cleaner air and prevention of water run off.
Green grasses are a fire retardent, but dry burning grass adds tonnes of CO2 to the air.
As there are thousands employed in the horticulture industry, is it time for those who profess to be green to realise where the solution to global warming is.
May
6
We all want to do our part for the environment, and saving water is one of the first steps we can take to conserve this precious commodity.
A point to remember,
For “every millimetre of rain” that falls on “every square metre” of your roof “every hour” you collect “one litre of water”
If you have the storage capacity, and the piping is done correctly, you can collect thousands of litres of water, and the best thing, its all for FREE
Jan
29
Hello everyone,
Its Ken here, and I am actually writing my first post. I am still in the process of setting up our Plumbing Helpline Site. Over the next few days, I will be adding pages on each catagory of the Plumbing Industry. Although the site is still work in progress, I would really appreciate any comments you may like to leave. While I am in the process of building the site, still give me a call if I can help you out with any Plumbing problems or queries.
Nov
4
Welcome to WordPress. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start blogging!